July 23
For those of you who haven’t seen Benjamin Button, we highly recommend you do it for no other reason than the fact that it shows some of the beautiful streets of New Orleans.
Our day in NOLA began with a ride down St Charles St on one of their historic cable cars. It is certainly the most entertaining way to travel through the city and affords for a chance to see all the beautiful houses and Spanish moss-draped oaks that lined the streets. We got off at Canal St and soon found ourselves on the notorious Bourbon Street of the historic French Quarter. Now, one might think that since it was around lunchtime that this street, known for its lewd behavior, would be fairly tame. This was not the case. Minding our own business, we came upon a doorway where a scantily clad young woman stood to entice patrons to enter the bar. Needless to say, her presence had the opposite effect on us and we quickly turned towards Royal St, one block over.
It was noon, hot, and muggy, so we sought out a place to find some lunch and reprieve from the heat. We had received an insider’s tip (thanks Amanda!) about a great place to get authentic Po Boy sandwiches and great oysters at the Acme Oyster House. We each ordered a different Po Boy – short for “Poor Boy,” a name earned by the out of work cable car drivers who most often ate them – C: oyster, B: oyster and shrimp, K: roast beef. We also ordered some of their famous charbroiled oysters topped with garlic, butter, and Parmesan cheese. Sooo good. A half dozen was not enough!
From Acme’s we went to explore another thing that the Big Easy is known for – voodoo! The Voodoo Museum was quirky, spooky, and downright weird! Honestly, it was everything you’d expect it to be. When we opened the door, we walked straight into a tiny little gift shop filled with amulets and potions for love, luck, revenge, and wealth, but we won’t tell you which ones we bought! Also in the room was an oversized man at an undersized table. He informed us that he was a real live Druid and Voodoo Priest who had been in charge of the museum for years now. After a brief bio of his life’s history, he filled us in on the facts and myths of voodooism and Marie Laveau, a famous quadroon voodoo priestess from the area. We paid our entrance fee and walked through a tiny hallway to our right that opened into the strangest collection of items we had ever seen. Masks, statues, and paintings lined the walls and in each nook and cranny was a shrine erected for various voodoo deities where we were instructed to leave an offering. There was even a voodoo wishing well where we could write down our wish and drop it, wrapped in money, into an old stump, praying to Marie for it to come true.
After freaking ourselves out thoroughly, we decided that something sweet was in order. We soon found ourselves at Café du Monde, the old French coffee house where we got some famous beignets (French doughnuts) and coffees. We then went for a stroll along the muddy end of our old friend the Mississippi (see “Mosquitoes? You, Betcha!”).
We decided to stop back at the house to freshen up before beginning our search for some authentic New Orleans jazz. As we walked through our hosts lovely garden we were thrilled to find them all at home. Chris and Kendra were incredibly obliging with all of their local knowledge and Fiona, their 3 year old, was possibly the cutest little girl we’d ever seen!
With a quick shower and wardrobe change we were ready for our night out on the town. First stop: SnoBalls! These are the NOLA version of SnoCones but are (supposedly) very different. B got her shaved ice topped with mango and raspberry, K got mango and mojito, and C got lemon-lime and tiger’s blood – a combination of all the berry flavors with a hint of coconut. True to it’s name, tiger’s blood arrived bright red (and very tasty).
From our frozen delights we headed down to Frenchmen St (a recommendation from our lovely hosts) where all the locals go to enjoy the city’s nightlife however, being small town girls we didn’t realize that good music in the city generally started around 10pm. It was only 8 o’clock when our search began so the only music we could hear came from a bar called Maison (French for “house”). We found the opening act for the night to be an authentic New Orleans jazz group comprised solely of women who had found their musical calling later in life. They could have fooled us though, since they still rocked the house (sorry, maison). Unfortunately, we had barely gotten ourselves settled when the band decided to take a break. Little did we know that a new form of entertainment had just walked in the door. As we were chatting with the bassist, two strange men entered the bar and sat at our table as though they knew us. “Tiny” and his friend informed us that they were “shooting a student film” about silliness and decided to use us as extras for their bar scene. A minute later we were all seated at the bar taking shots of water and trying to understand what this had to do with Joie de vivre. Despite the camera, lighting, and sound crew, we decided that we had had enough of this strange film and moved on to find some more agreeable company.
Our next stop was a direct result of our rumbling tummies. The Marigny Brasserie on the corner seemed to be the perfect place to have dinner and wait for the street to fill with more music. Once our stomachs had been filled we knew it was time to find some more music. Our first stop at the Apple Barrel proved fruitless. The second attempt at the d.b.a. was thwarted by the cover charge at the door. (Don’t judge us! We’re poor!) Our third try paid off like Goldilocks. Not only was there no cover but B recognized the music to be the famous Cotton Mouth Kings! We enjoyed listening to their beautiful and catchy music while watching locals swing dance along. All around we agreed the local NOLA scene was a blast!
On the way home, curious to how it differed from our lunchtime experience, we decided to drive down Bourbon St to see what the nightlife was like. For the sake of the children, we will merely state that it was not our scene.
We got home much later than planned, but then again that’s the sign of a good time! After making sure the air conditioner was turned up we all passed out so we could get an early start on our trip to the Sunshine State the next morning!
Mileage to date: 7,253
States visited: Louisiana
Yellow car count:
C – 275
B – 277
K – 334
Highs and Lows:
Group high – Southern hospitality
Group low – Spending $5 unnecessarily on public transportation
C high – Great jazz, Southern gentlemen, French!
C low – Not having enough time for the WWII museum
B high –Cotton Mouth Kings!
B low – Humidity
K high – Hot waiter, southern accents
K low –Bourbon St